Back to the limestone, and another of the mega adventure crags of the Val d’Arve – Les Vuardes is on the opposite side of the valley to Maladiere, and similarly is approached from the top by half a dozen committing abseils – though at least it is possible, though grim, to walk out.
We chose Vertiges de l’oubli a 4* route in a guidebook that generally only goes up to 3*, and “the best route on the crag” according to the author. He’s right! 10 pitches of ED with the middle half dozen very sustained at 6b+ to 6c+.
The first 6b pitch sets the scene, taking a diagonal traverse across overhanging territory on square-cut holds on awesome yellow rock. It just gets tougher from then on, turning to super sharp goutte d’eau and steep balancy climbing.
Stunning exposure guaranteed!
…and superb views across to Maladiere.