Milianos Cave – another fine offering from Gibson Productions

It’s getting seriously hot, and climbing in the sun is becoming completely untenable. Even on the morning shade crags, the pressure of the imminent arrival of “big yellow face” makes for a rushed and less enjoyable session.

What Kalymnos needs more of, especially as summer nears, is properly shady crags. Enter Gary and Hazel Gibson, who have developed Milianos Cave in the Vathy valley.

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We made the mistake of arriving a bit early, and did a couple of warm ups in the sun (not that we needed to get any warmer!) but the routes began to go into the shade from 1pm and by 2 we were basking in delicious coolth.

The style of climbing is the complete antithesis of yesterday’s Grande Grotta session – steep slab to vertical wall on VERY sharp rock. The routes are less than 12 months old and still somewhat off the beaten track, so understandably they’re still “settling down” a bit, but with a bit more traffic they’ll be a really valuable addition to the island.

Purple Haze 6a, Snap shot and Shooting gallery (both 6b+) were all good, Bang Bang 7a lived up to the description “Improbable but the pockets keep appearing” and Liver Birds 7a+ was a good deal stiffer (using perhaps the only non-spikey holds on the crag!)

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… and the outlook, over Vathy and to the sea, isn’t too shabby and makes a nice change from yet another view of Telendos.

A fine addition – thanks Gary, we’ve dropped a donation off at Glaros.

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